2  CTPCI Installation                                            CTPCI

Some general hints and instructions before starting the hardware 

 · Make sure your Falcon is completely shut off and the power cord is 
   unplugged from the wall socket.

 · The CTPCI comes with two cards: One that is plugged on the CT60/
   63 and that is connected to standard IDE UDMA ribbon cables (80 
   wires) to the second card that holds four PCI slots.

 · Wear an antistatic wrist band connected to the metal shielding of 
   your Falcon when you handle the CTPCI and the CT60/63. If such a 
   wrist band is not available, then discharge any static electricity 
   from yourself by touching a nearby grounded and unpainted metal 
   object, like a plugged-in toaster or electric heater or a faucet, 
   before installation. Then do not move from the spot you are 
   sitting as this will charge your body again. This is not as good 
   protection as the wrist band. Symptoms caused by electrostatic 
   discharge may show up long after a component was damaged.

 · Try always to hold a board by the edges. Do not apply pressure on 
   any chips of a board.

 · And try to avoid reseating the CT60/63 and the CTPCI too often 
   since solders on the Falcon motherboard and the cards might be 
   broken this way.

0. Update Everything

Before thinking of using the CTPCI, be sure your CT60/63 and the 
CTPCI is updated with the latest version of the firmware for the 
different chips. See the chapter Firmware Updates for updating them.

1. Preparing the PCI Slot Board

You need a standard 4-pin Molex connector from your ATX PSU (power 
supply unit), along with an extra orange wire you must take from one 
of the cables of your PSU.

The orange wire is used to bring 3.3V to the board. Cut one of the 
orange cables on the ATX power supply connector (see pinout table 
below), or you can cut the orange one from a standard 15-pin SATA 
connector (it has five wires: one orange, two black, one red and one 
yellow wire) if your PSU has such a connector. Strip off some 
insulation, press the lever of the small orange clamp to open it, 
insert the wire in the hole and release.

 Table. Pinout of the 20-pin power connector on the CT60/63 (standard 
        ATX version 1.x) and the colour of the PSU's corresponding 

 1   +3.3V (input)        Orange     11  +3.3V (input)        Orange
 2   +3.3V (input)        Orange     12  -12V                 Blue
 3   Ground (0V)          Black      13  Ground (0V)          Black
 4   +5V  (input)         Red        14  Power on (output)    Green
 5   Ground (0V)          Black      15  Ground (0V)          Black
 6   +5V (input)          Red        16  Ground (0V)          Black
 7   Ground (0V)          Black      17  Ground (0V)          Black
 8   Power OK (not used)  Grey       18  -5V (input)          White
 9   +5V standby (input)  Purple     19  +5V (input)          Red
 10  +12V (input)         Yellow     20  +5V (input)          Red

 Pin 18 is used to provide -5V (white wire) in ATX versions up to 
 1.2. It is optional in version 1.2 and missing in version 1.3 and 
 up. Therefore, some ATX PSUs do not have the white wire.

If you do not want to cut an orange cable, you can take the 3.3V from 
the CT60/63 board. For that, solder a wire under the CT60/63 board on 
the corresponding solder point of the ATX PSU connector. Another 
option is to buy a quick-splice connector (see figure below). They 
are a fast and easy way to splice into an existing wire. No stripping 
of the wires is necessary. Simply insert an orange wire of the PSU 
into the front slot and a new cable into the rear slot (cable will 
only fit from one side) of the splice, squeeze down on the metal 
insert with pliers and close the cap.

       Figure.  A quick-splice connector. On the right, you can
              see the front (left) and rear (right) slot

In case you use a picoPSU, there is a little problem. Only cables 
with 5V and with 12V power are provided by the picoPSU. In case you 
do not want to solder a cable to the CT60/63 as described above, you 
can solder a cable on the 3.3V pin of the picoPSU (see figure below).

       Figure. A picoPSU with a cable soldered on the 3.3V pin

2. Preparing the CTPCI Mainboard

IDE UDMA ribbon cables (80-wire cables) usually come with three 
differently coloured connectors (blue = controller, grey = slave 
drive, and black = master drive) as opposed to uniformly coloured 40-
wire cable connectors (all black). Plug the blue connectors of the 
two cables to PCI1/J11 and PCI2/J12 connectors on the CTPCI 
mainboard. The socket for pin 20 is often obstructed and a pin in 
this position cannot be connected, making it impossible to plug in 
the connector the wrong way round. If the socket is not obstructed, 
look for the red wire of the ribbon cable and connect it with pin 1.

Note: Mark down which is PCI1/J11 and PCI2/J12. Once plugged on the 
CT60/63, you will not be able to see which is where because the 
labelling on the PCB is below.

There is a third connector (IDE/J3) if you want to use the IDE port 
of this board.

3. Preparing the Falcon Motherboard and CT60/63

To plug the CTPCI board on the CT60/63, it is easier to unplug the 
CT60/63 from the motherboard and remove the SDRAM from the CT60/63. 
Between the SDRAM and the fan/cooler, there is very little space 
remaining, so unplugging the CT60/63 and the SDRAM is the safest way 
to properly put it.

However, there is another reason for unplugging the CT60/63. There is 
a little work to do on the Falcon motherboard. The original power 
connector of the motherboard will collide with one of the connectors 
of the ribbon cables.

  Figure. Installed CTPCI and the Falcon motherboard power connector

You will have to bend the first three pins of the old motherboard 
power connector to the right and cut the plastic shielding up to the 
fourth pin (see figure below). The pins are big enough to not break 
when you bend them, and you can put them back in the original 
position if you need to restore everything.

           Figure. Falcon motherboard power connector with
                 cut plastic shielding and bent pins

Alternatively, you can desolder the old mainboard power connector and 
entirely remove it. It can be soldered back in if you ever wish to
restore the original Falcon.

4. Plugging the CTPCI Mainboard

Plugging the CTPCI board onto the CT60/63 requires the following 

 · Check whether there is anything on the CT60/63 that is tall enough 
   to run the risk of short circuiting to the CTPCI. If you are not 
   sure if a metal part or component gets in contact with the CTPCI, 
   put some isolating tape on top of it. For example, if you have a 
   CT60, your socketed oscillator or CTCM [?1] will touch your CTPCI 
   (a CT63 has always a soldered CTCM).

   If you have a CT60, another option here is to replace the original 
   socket with a low-profile one. This will lower the socketed 
   oscillator or CTCM by 1.5-2.0 mm, sufficient to avoid contacting 
   the CTPCI. This requires a great deal of care and should only be 
   attempted by those skilled in desoldering.

          Figure. CT60 with a CTCM on the oscillator socket.
           On the left side is the 'F030 BOOST' header with
                a jumper on it (position = boost off)

   With the CT60, which is able to boost the Falcon motherboard 
   unlike the CT63, there may also be a concern with the 3-pin 
   header, labelled 'F30 BOOST', located next to the oscillator 
   socket (see figure above). If the Falcon motherboard boost is 
   installed and a switch is connected to this header, and you want 
   to keep using your switch for turning on and off the boost, you 
   can bend the pins over. An alternative to bending the pins is to 
   solder the wires of the switch under the CT60/63 board on the 
   corresponding solder points of the pin header. Note that, if you 
   just remove the switch, the motherboard boost will be turned on.

     Figure. Didier Méquignon's CT60 with a connector on the bent
     pins of the Falcon 030 boost header and a self-made extender
     on the oscillator socket for his too tall programmable clock
       module by the German company AK MODUL-BUS Computer GmbH

   If you have replaced the oscillator socket, you should also remove 
   approximately 1 mm from the top of the pins on the 'F030 BOOST' 
   connector to provide extra clearance there.

 · Align the connectors of the CTPCI over the CT60/63 expansion 
   connectors. Make sure that there is no wire between the connectors 
   and that all the pins of the CT60/63 are covered by the CTPCI.

 · Gently push down the CTPCI onto the CT60/63 by pressing your 
   thumbs on free areas on the CTPCI board. Make sure you push the 
   four corners evenly. If you have a CT60 and have not replaced the 
   oscillator socket as described above, the socketed oscillator or 
   CTCM will not allow you to push the CTPCI completely down. Just do 
   it as far as possible; and do not forget to put some isolating 
   tape between the component and the CTPCI.

When this is done, you can plug back the SDRAM on the CT60/63 and the 
CT60/63 on the motherboard. Please make sure that the pins of the 
Falcon motherboard power connector are bent so that they do not 
collide with the ribbon cables. And note that you MUST reconnect the 
floppy power connector from the Falcon motherboard to the CT60/63 the 
right way (pay attention to the labelling). REVERSING THE CONNECTOR 

If you removed the shielding, you can place the ribbons below the 
CT60/63 and put them out to the left of the motherboard. If you like 
to do this, note that the ribbon cables will touch the CT60/63 
connector (2-3 mm are missing to avoid them doing this) and so it 
will not easy to guide them under the CT60/63, but it works with not 
too much trouble. Maybe the best method is to put the ribbon cables 
next to the CT60/63 connector (not really tightly) and hold the 
cables with some fingers while plugging back the complete system on 
the Falcon connectors.

The cables are very close to the Falcon motherboard. If you use 
modern IDE cables with a grip to easily release the cables from their 
connectors, you will have to remove the grips by simply breaking them 
away with a flat screw driver.

           Figure. Plugged CTPCI board on the CT60/63 with
               ribbon cables placed on the right side.

Be careful if you use the original Atari keyboard, as it will touch 
the expansion port at the top of the CTPCI card. Protect the 
expansion port (and/or the keyboard PCB) to avoid any possibility of 
a short circuit there.

5. Connecting the PCI Slot Board

Plug the black connectors of the two IDE UDMA ribbon cables to J5 
(from PCI1/J11) and J6 (from PCI2/J12) of the PCI slot board. Again, 
if you use cables without an obstructed socket for pin 20, connect 
the red wire to pin 1 (on the same side as the power connector).

         Figure. PCI slot card connected to the ATX PSU (Molex
           connector), a 3.3V source (orange wire) and the
              ribbon cables coming from the CTPCI board

The middle (slave) connector of the ribbon cable cannot be used. So 
it is not possible to cut the ribbon cable to reduce the length using 
controller and slave connectors.

6. Testing

Double check that the daughter board will receive power. Check again 
that everything is properly plugged and that there will be no short 
circuits. If your Falcon does not boot up the first time you power it 
up, press the reset button several times.

Consider reducing the clock frequency of the CPU if any of these 
happens, specially if you do not have a Revision 6 CPU [?2]:
 - 'Warning: BAD ROM CRC IN CHIP E' when booting TOS (only happens at 
   power up, though, is not displayed after a reset)
 - Falcon resets after a few seconds
 - Graphical corruption in demos (such as the great Amiga demo 
   Starstruck by The Black Lotus, ported by MiKRO)

Please be patient, it will take some time until the Radeon is ready 
for output. If you see the following lines on your boot screen, your 
CTPCI is recognised:

 CTPCI found, scanning PCI devices...
 Slot | Fctn | VendorID | DeviceID | Description
  [0] |  [0] | 0x10B5   |  0x9054  | Bridge Controller (NUBUS Bridge)
  [1] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [2] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [3] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [4] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device

7. Plugging PCI Cards

Now you can power off your system and finally plug in the PCI cards. 
For the PCI cards, the back planes must be at the same end as the 
orange 3.3V power connector.

    Figure. Completely installed CTPCI with a Radeon graphics card
        plugged into the PCI slot card (ribbon cables exiting
                   to the left of the motherboard)

A PCI card is recognised by the CTPCI if, on the boot screen, you get 
a vendor ID, a device ID and a description for your card listed for 
one of the slots 1-4. For a Radeon 9200 128 MB in slot 2 and a 
network card with a RTL8139 in slot 4, you will see the following:

 CTPCI found, scanning PCI devices...
 Slot | Fctn | VendorID | DeviceID | Description
  [0] |  [0] | 0x10B5   |  0x9054  | Bridge Controller (NUBUS Bridge)
  [1] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [2] |  [0] | 0x1002   |  0x5960  | Display Controller (VGA)
  [2] |  [1] | 0x1002   |  0x5940  | Display Controller (unknown)
  [2] |  [2] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [3] |  [0] | 0xFFFF   |          | no device
  [4] |  [0] | 0x10EC   |  0x8139  | Network Controller (Ethernet)